Costume de Rigeur aka White Tie

Alton Brown is, spiritually at least, my father. I hate a unitasker in my wardrobe. The other thing I dislike is having my ass in a sling: last minute shopping for something you must have almost always leaves me salty, and with an item I’m not crazy about. So, it was with some hesitation that I donned costume de rigueur, also known as white tie, to attend a Mardi Gras ball. White tie, for the unaware, it’s a black tailcoat and pants, white vest, white tie, pique’ shirt, button covers or studs, and black patent shoes.

More capable writers have tackled the subject of the thrifting philosophy: (An Affordable Wardrobe or PTO) keep your eyes peeled for what you want/need, regardless of the season. Thrift turnover is high, but quality can be much better than what you’d buy new in a pinch. My hackles were raised when I had to go to a rental shop to get some of my accoutrement; as anyone who’s stepped foot in a formal wear rental shop knows, those suits come made of polyester so dense that they can withstand a decade’s worth of prom night grinding.  I was lucky enough to borrow the coat, vest, tie, and adjust-a-belt pants from one of K’s family members, but the other items were things I needed to pick up the day of the ball. And here we arrive at peeve numero dos: ass in a sling.

I chose to buy a shirt and used shoes because renting just seems like throwing money away. Well, turns out I had to throw money away on some items that I’ll never wear again anyway. Costume de rigeuer specifies a pique’ finish on a wing collared shirt. The only shirt options I could find on short notice and in my price range were 100% poly. Sure, if I’d had my druthers I’d be at Brooks Brothers picking one up, but I’m not sure if I’ll go to another ball, and full retail seems like a lot to sink into a unitasker. If only I had kept my eyes peeled at the thrift throughout the year!

The same drama unfolded with the shoes. I’ve been eyeballing those sweet velvet loafers from Stubbs and Wootton and curiously femme evening shoes at Brooks Brothers, but never thought of buying a pair new. I probably wasn’t the kindest shopper at the rental counter, but I wanted to see a few different shoe options to obtain the least scuffed pair. The pair I ended up with violate rule numero uno; they’re so flimsy and odd as to only be suitable for the dark, drunken confines of a large party. After buying the shitty pair of shoes in unidentifiable material from the rental shop, I started scouring the thrifts. The thrifting gods smiled down upon me, and I found a pair of Cole Haan formal pumps, used, for the same price that I paid for the mystery shoes. Unfortunately, after wearing them around the house, they seem a half-size too small. I’m unloading them on ebay in the hopes of trading up to a pair that’s a tad larger.

So, I’ve been kvetching a lot, but I don’t want any of this to reflect on the actual experience inside the ball. Also, I’m sure many of you out there would long to see an occasion in our loosey-goosey society where people absolutely must adhere to a strict dress code or be denied entry. Despite the hassle, I can respect the overall effect of uniformity and tradition. And in the future, I’m definitely going to keep my eyes peeled when thrifting and my eBay alerts set to look for any clothing items that may fit white tie and I suggest you do the same.

photo credit: Jake Holly/startraksphoto.com

I just finished watching the latest episode of The Kardashians with K and just so you know, Kourtney’s delivery was way more graphic than most shown on the tube. The baby’s daddy is Scott Disick and he’s a man that’s not afraid to wear a spread collar and a fat knot (as you’ll notice in the photo above). He’s kind of like a real life Chuck Bass. Like Chuck, he’s also into the club scene. He’s currently trying to open one up in Miami (Spoiler alert: Kourtney and Khloe are moving back to Miami to work at Dash because a few ladies quit.).

Anyway, I think the look works for him. He’s not exactly a gentleman, especially when he’s drinking, but he does play around with colors and I can respect that. Oh yeah, and if you’re looking for a tie that’s similar to the one he’s wearing in the photo, I’m selling one on eBay right now.

Q and Answer: Can I roll up khakis?

Alex asks: Should I roll up my too long khakis or is that for jeans only?

You can roll up khakis as long as they don’t have pleats. Take a look at this lady rocking her boyfriend’s chinos in the latest Lands’ End Canvas collection. I’m not saying that you can take all of your tips from the ladies, but this one is safe. Basically, you don’t want the top of the khakis to look too blousy—unless you’re going for a 90s AC Slater pegged-leg look. When you roll up the bottoms of your pants, it’s possible to create a triangle shape from the waist line to the ankle instead of the flattering rectangular shape that’s commonly seen in the drape of most men’s pants.

I’d recommend getting them permanently cuffed or hemmed—depending on what look you’re going for. And after the tailor gets you fixed up, don’t be afraid to roll them up when you’re out on the water catching crawfish or walking your lady along the beach.

(above: Not everyone can pull off that Panama hat but I think you’ll agree that Mr. Connery looks just fine with the khakis rolled.)

UPDATE: While browsing the Spring - Summer 2010 collection from Woolrich John, Rich & Bros, I noticed a couple of models with rolled khakis—take a look.

photo credit gilligansisle

For my own personal pleasure I converted the Gilligan outfit found at Commerce with a Conscience into a Polyvore set. And since it’s cold in Portland I added pants.

Gilligan by robksawyer on Polyvore.com
Items in this set:
Gilligan Shirts and Hats
Shuron Classic Collection Ronsir Revelation
Town View Leather “Moosehide Comfort Softie” Moccasin
Lake blue washed khakis - Bonobos
Classic Sailing & Tennis Hat [2010] | $26.00 | Quaker Marine Supply…