Thumbs Up To: Lino Ieluzzi

I don’t even know the man, but Lino Ieluzzi’s kindness radiates from his face in all of the photos that I’ve seen of him. He’s killing me, he just looks too nice. I had to get to the bottom of what this guy’s deal is. Apparently, I’m not the only one that’s been captivated by his smiles, the Japanese love him and he’s also grabbed the attention of Sart Schuman.

Lino’s style consists of double-breasted jackets, double monks, spread collars, fat knots, a smile, often a thumbs up, and dramatic color somewhere—not too much, though. (via Men’s Flair) I’m not sure if he was the first to walk around with one buckle undone on his dubs, but he pulls it off like he was. If he told me he was, I’d probably believe him. He’s been in the industry running his store Al Bazar for 36 years and so there’s no doubt the man knows a thing or two about sprezzatura.

I’m adding Lino to my style icon list. Who’s in your list? In every shot I’ve seen Lino’s been spot on, in his own way. Well quaffed flowing hair, dubs, and that killer smile. When you head off to Milano, just remember to stop by Al Bazar and give Lino a thumbs up for being a cool dude. 

Duck Head Oxfords

Do you remember Duck Head? I do. That duck invaded the South. And in the 80s and 90s its curious single eye stared at you so hard when you were trying to check out a lady’s rear assets. Their khaki colored shorts were a prep staple. I been had the Duck. 

Enough about the shorts, they’re over for me. From what I remember, they were like wearing sand paper. I wanted to turn your attention to their shoes, especially their saddle oxford. We’re not exactly talking about quality, but we’re talking about getting the goods el cheapo. When you’re buying a saddle shoe, why not buy from a classic company at classic prices? Thirty-five dollars these days will barely buy you a t-shirt at Target.

As far as the quality of these things, who knows. Most of the shoes are made in either China or Brazil (via the company brochure), and ever since Duck Head’s partnership with Old Diminion they’ve been pushing footwear to the masses. I can’t attest to the quality as of yet. Duck Head PR, now’s your time to shine and hook a fellow Southerner up. I only want the saddle oxfords, though. I’ve browsed the latest collection and I can’t say that anything in the line up strikes my fancy. Quack.

I believe all of the oxfords are made in Brazil. PR, quack if that’s wrong.

(Source: duckhead.com)

Just a Single Strap

Until Allen Edmonds responds to the masses and brings back the Mora (Please!), you’re gonna get stuck paying more than a couple benjamins if you want a decent pair of double monks. I know they’re poppin’ off right now. I’ve seen a couple pair floating about the bay, but that’s not the point of this post. I want to bring your attention to underappreciated single monk. I must confess that it’ll never hold the same place in my heart as the double, but I respect it and I found a few decent pairs that I think you’ll like. 

Finding a single monk that looks good is no easy task. There are enough pointed and bulky versions out there to fill a million, nay billion, Payless warehouses. I think the strap itself adds enough flair and so I’m not a fan of the brogued, split-toe, or perforated versions. And I’m not even considering the laid back strap style of the JL Jermyn joints because, quite honestly, I don’t have that kind of swagger yet. A cap toe is the extent of embellishments that I’d rock.

The monk has been around since the dark ages, but they’ve been in the closet for about that long too. Luckily, I managed to scoop up one of the better looking monks at a thrift store. You walk a fine line when wearing a shoe like this. For me it comes down to not looking too classic, conservative, or disabled. It’s a casual shoe so I don’t try to change it. Most times I just wear them with denim—something like this. I’m probably going to wear them with grey wool flannel trousers this Fall, too.

I know I didn’t make it any easier by telling you about a shoe that’s no longer made. Like your dad says, they just don’t make ‘em like they used to. The only buckle shoe that AE is offering now is the Boston. If something happened to my Garners, I don’t think I’d consider the Bostons. Are we going to have to get another petition to AE going? If I did go for the Boston monk, I’d go for the older version. 

I wouldn’t leave you hangin’ with only one option. I found a couple more that are worth a look. The first are from Alden and made on the plaza last. I like the suede version best. These won’t be as cheap as the Garner and do have a few notable differences. One is the suede and another is that they have a pointier quarter piece connecting the vamp. I think this shoe is a lot slicker than the Garner, but it’s definitely one that you could still pair with your denim. 

The last pair that I really like are the Edward Green Troons. These’ll set you back a pretty penny, but since most of the kids have their ebay alerts set for double monks, you might just score a pair for a decent price. The Troon has a similar pointy quarter piece to the Alden monk and the buckle is a similar rectangle styled buckle that’s on the Garner. I prefer the rectangle buckle.

Let me know what you think. I must admit that this post was only created to distract you. I’m really just trying to keep you from coppin’ all the dubs when they come available. Your friend, Rob.

Update: It worked, I just snagged a new pair of black Moras. :)

photo credit: Shoe Mart

photo credit: Sky Valet Shoes 

I like my Toast crispy, brah.

Men, this may be a new brand for you, especially if you don’t have a lady. K introduced me to Toast via a bank statement surprise. She’s a big fan of the women’s line and now that they’ve put up a men’s line, I might have to return the favor. The brand has its roots in the UK and they’ve been fitting the ladies in country-casual inspired garb since ‘97. I’ve browsed the women’s collection and I’d like to tip my hat to the brand for applying the same ethical standards to the men’s line. Men do care about fabrics and especially quality. They’ve started off right by focusing on the basics and have introduced a number of staples. I’ll elaborate if you keep reading, but just to get your taste buds wet, they’re bringing to the table a solid chambray shirt, wool chalk striped trousers, and a mighty fine basic white heavy linen popover shirt.

I know what you’re thinking. As if you didn’t already have enough chambray in your closet! What can I say? It’s a classic. And for a brand that’s just getting into menswear, I’m happy they’re offering it. It’s apparently not slim and instead has a more generous cut, according to the catalog. That might be just what you need this Winter after all of those Twinkies™ start hitting your gut because you were too lazy to get out and exercise.

Interestingly, the Toast AW10 pants selection spans from wool trousers to Japanese denim. I’m not sure how slim they are, but I do know that the chalk striped pants have a tapered leg and they’re made of English-woven 12 oz. wool flannel. And that’s just what you need in the Winter months.

One of my favorite staples in the lineup is a heavy linen white popover shirt. I’ve been rockin’ the OCBD for a minute and I think linen is a nice way to mix things up. If you want a closer look you can see more here, but to sum it up they cut it similar to those made in the 30s and it’s constructed with a weighty herringbone linen. The perfect pop for Winter. 

Toast didn’t do it all alone. It takes more than a bolt of flannel, cotton moleskin, some linen and shetland wool to create that shepherd/country man aesthetic that Toast has nailed. You can’t look this good without some Argyll wellies, Spring Court sneakers, and some Grenson brogues. And that’s just what Toast added.

I’d like to sit here all day and go through each item, but I don’t want to be the one to blame when you get persuaded to sink all your funds at one shop. You know I could persuade you, you dick-riding fool. I really like the collection and I think the fabric choices, muted tones, and basic staples were a fine way to kick off the Toast menswear endeavor. I’ve added my favorites below. And although it may look like the entire catalog, I didn’t add the pajamas on page 33 of the AW10 catalog because I never sleep and I’m never relaxin’.

Update: Lara from Toast sent over a couple of higher res images that you should notice below.

DIY: Wide to Skinny Tie Conversion

I had some time this weekend so I thought I’d try my hand at converting a wide tie into a skinny tie. I found this tutorial and another one that was really helpful. Honestly, there wasn’t much to it though.

I just happened to stumble upon the amazing Liberty of London tie at a thrift store this weekend. It was way too wide for my tastes though, but the cotton that makes this tie is one of the best I’ve ever felt. And it was just too good to pass up for $3.99. If you didn’t already know it, Liberty of London is the master at quality fabrics and amazing prints. You might also remember when I wrote about the recent collab with Target. I snagged one of the ties from the collection.

I just marked the area that I wanted cut with pencil and then trimmed it up with scissors. 

I was surprised that this project only took a little over an hour. I’m really slow at sewing. It’s not hard though: simply unstitch the running stitch along the entire tie, trim the interfacing, trim excess fabric and then fold back over and re-stitch. It might help to iron down the fabric over the trimmed interfacing too. Take a look at the photos and let me know what you think of the conversion.

The Poorer Gent’s Guide to Shopping in Portland, OR.

I know you’ve already read my life story, especially if you’ve read the Poor Gent’s and Rich Gent’s guides, so I won’t bother you with it anymore. Let’s get to the details. 

photo credit: Google Maps

Wow, you really hitchhiked all the way here from the ‘burbs? I gotta give you credit, that’s a trip. Well, you look like shit. You need some new rags, my brotha. Let’s head over to Burnside and hit up the Goodwill. This Goodwill is by far one of the best in town. I’ve found everything from Lacoste polos to Dunderdon jackets there. It’s not so great when it comes to shoes though, but I got that covered.

Wow, that Thomas Pink shirt fits great. Get it and let’s head over to William Temple and get you some shoes. You’re gonna really like this place. I’ve found the nicest shoes there—everything from Peal & Co. to Allen Edmonds. I feel like today’s you’re lucky day, you’re gonna be lookin’ like a milli before you know it. After you find some shoes we’ll head downtown and grab some grub.

photo credit: Alice Q

Those new Allen Edmonds monks are killah. You’re a lucky man, if I could fit into a 9 1/2, I would’ve fought you for those. Let’s hop on the MAX and go downtown to Give Pizza a Chance and get some pizza and a homemade root beer. 

photo credit: askmerchant

The pizza was delicious, right? It’s one of my favorites in town. There’s another cart on Hawthorne named Pyro Pizza that’s owned by the same people, but Pyro has a homemade brick oven inside. Now that you’re stuffed, let’s hop on the streetcar and ride over to Buffalo Exchange. Don’t worry, riding the streetcar is free downtown.

Buffalo Exchange isn’t as cheap as Goodwill, but you can find some good items for low prices. They often have a decent selection of pants and sneakers. And they’re always stocking Japanese denim and other respected denim brands. I’m certain you’re gonna find somethin’ to cover your drawers. 

photo credit: Barista

Those new jeans look sharp, but you’re lookin’ pretty tired. Too much shopping for you? Maybe you need a pick me up, like some coffee. We have quite a few great options. There’s a shop called Spella, a Stumptown in the Ace Hotel and Barista which is only a few blocks away.

Barista? Nice choice. You’re not going to be disappointed. Barista has by far the best selection of coffee in town. I’ve reviewed quite a few of the coffees they offer on the blog. While we’re walking over, let’s stop by Filson to see if they’re having a sale. It’s good to dream a little.

photo credit: Hawthorne open 

Barista’s coffee selection just keeps getting better and better. That was the perfect pick me up on this cold day. I bet you’re freezin’. You’re definitely going to need a jacket if you’re planning on staying out tonight. I have the perfect place. Let’s go rent some bikes and ride over to Hawthorne St. to check out Red Light. I know they’ll have at least one Schott pea coat in your size. I’ve seen ‘em with my own two eyes. 

photo credit: Orvis

Yep, I told you. You got that pea coat for a steal. Enough shopping, you need to go take a shower and get into those new duds. Afterwards, let’s head out and find you a sophisticated young lady so that I don’t have to go shopping with you anymore.

Black on Black Oversized Timex Easy Reader

I ran across another blacked out Easy Reader today and I snatched it up for you. I’ve talked about this watch before on the blog, and I’m talking about it again because it’s one of my favorites from Timex. It’s no wonder GQ added it to the August 2010 issue along side of the Panerai. This watch has a 42mm face and can make a statement. Lug to lug it holds a 20mm band and the Timex team did you a solid by fixing it up with genuine black leather one. Happy bidding.

photo credit: me

Brooks Brothers Wool & Leather Varsity Jacket

I’m selling my Brooks Brothers varsity jacket. Errybody get your bid on, errybody errybody get your bid on. What!

The Rich Gent’s Guide to Shopping in Portland, OR.

I moved to Portland a little over four years ago and I’ve loved every minute of it. I try to consume everything. Being from the South (Bama), it’s a lot different from what I’ve grown up with. I remember as a kid trying to find certain clothing items and they were no where to be found. But now, there’s endless shopping and so I’d like to give you a little taste of what Portland has to offer.

This shopping guide is like one of those pick your own adventure games. Seriously, because I know that some gents who read this blog could buy me another Lambo and not think twice, but some gents couldn’t buy the gas for it. Poor gents, consider this a free ride. Rich gents, consider this a free consultation. 

There are a few caveats to this guide. I’m focusing on smaller retailers because anyone can do a search for J.Crew 97210 with the Google. Am I right?

Rich gents, keep reading. Poor gents, your guide is here.

photo credit: Virtual Gourmet

First you need to get some grub before this big shopping trip. You’ve been working out, so you can handle a little fat. Since you’ve arrived on the weekend, let’s stop by 23 Hoyt and grab some brunch. The huevos rancheros are great. And you have to grab a cup of Stumptown coffee because it’s, well, one of the best. I just realized that I haven’t reviewed any Stumptown coffee on the blog—I need to get on that. If you didn’t already know, I stay up extremely late after work writing blog posts like these and I drink my fair share of coffee. You can read some of my reviews here. 

photo credit: ACL

Now that you’ve stained your brilliantly tailored kit from those huevos rancheros, you need some new clothes. Let me get the door for you. Beep Beep. One sec, the doors on my Benz SLS AMG are kinda slow. You got nothin’ but time, so just settle down. We’re going to Marios. It’s a place that packs all your favorites—they been had Polo. Now they’ve moved on to Dolce & Gabbana, Zegna, Kiton, Margiela, Paul Smith and many more lux brands. 

photo credit: Jen McCabe

After you run up that black Visa a couple clicks, we’ll walk over to John Helmer so you can order a pair of Aldens and maybe a hat. I’m not really a hat guy, but I’m almost certain that the mental asylum has come lookin’ for John because his hat game is so crazy. Is that a Panerai that you’re wearing? Oh, a watch guy, eh. Let’s walk down to Watchworks, you’re gonna love their selection. Actually, let’s hop on the streetcar and ride there.

photo credit: trustella

Yeah, that new Rolex is slick. Your wife will understand. Just tell her it’s an investment. Like that money you sunk in the noodles last week at the trade desk. Ding ding. It’s lunch time, we’re going over to Everett St. Bistro and we’re gonna eat some cheese and drink a cocktail or two. I’m also getting a cod sandwich on your tab. You didn’t think this tour was free, did yah? 

photo credit: Portland Neighborhood

Since we’re close, let’s stop into Finn. Alright, now we’re getting out of the Pearl district and we’re going up Glisan to Estes. I just got word that they’re packin’ Holland & Sherry fabrics. That’ll be perfect for a new Fall sport coat. You can also get a haircut and a shot of bourbon there. That third cocktail left me a bit tipsy, so I’ll pass. 

photo credit: Local 35

Let me call Jeeves real quick and get him to come down here and pick up the Benz. He’ll be happy to drive us over to the east side to visit Winn Perry. You have to check out the Quoddy, Olch ties and cufflink selection at Winn Perry. Afterwards we’ll head over to Hawthorne St. to check out the A.P.C jean selection at Local35.

photo credit: Seuber stock

I know you’re tired of shopping so let’s go take a load off and get some dinner. I know you get GQ and since you didn’t get any cod at lunch time, you have to try the cod at Bamboo Sushi. Alan Richman loved it. I’ve had it, it’s really good. After dinner we’re going to get some drinks at Departures and then I forget the rest.